Right Gully

Bottom pitch, right start	Early season conditions	Approaching the 1st pitch	Left gully!
Bottom pitch melted out	Early season condtions	Top pitch, thin.

The right gully has about half the climbing of the left gully. Half of this climbing is enjoyable. The bottom pitch of this route is not a great pitch. You can either start to the right of a rock ledge, or hike up left to gain a bit more elevation. The first pitch is just a series of rambling bulges that go on for about 30m. Belay in the trees above to the right. After this you have to wade through a couple hundred meters of deep snow. If you are lucky the crust can get thick enough to support full body weight, making things much easier. The top pitch is a pleasant ampitheatre that has several different lines. A steep pillar to the left is rarely done. A short slab leads to the headwall, a steep 20m of climbing to a good ledge followed by a 5m bulge. This climb is a bit of a sandbag at a W3. Often the ice on the top pitch is featured making protection a bit difficult for a supposed W3. If you have the time, take a while to play on the different lines up here. Approach by parking at the Warden's Compound and then hiking up to the left of the fence. Expect about 30min to the base. It is also possible to walk around the right side of the compound, although I have found that the snow on this open slope gets quite deep compared to that in the trees to the left. Descend by rapping each pitch. It is possible to walk around the bottom pitch by heading over to the center gully. You will have to downclimb a couple of small ledges if you choose to do this.