The Last Marboro

The last Marboro is the center route	The last marboro & unamed	From Quick & Dirty	Unamed is in the center
From the Crandell Lake turnoff	Thin conditions	new routes forming up left

Ocassionaly during the early season, or for a few days near the end of the season, the freeze / thaw cycles allows a pair of nice routes to come into shape exactly halfway between Quic & Dirty and Expert's Choice. These are nice continous routes. The Last Marboro is the left hand of the two predominant streaks. Expect two good pitches of ocassionaly thin ice.Good belays can be found on some rock ledges. Pins and a small selection of rock gear made handy accessories. Rap off pins, or if you are brave, and old tree to the right of Midnight Curfew, and left of Unamed. Be ware, rapping off this ledge can cause ropes to get jammed, making local rescue services nervous, and spouses anxious.

The best approach for this route is directly up one of the pullouts between Quick & Dirty and Expert's Choice. It is possible to approach via Expert's choice, and then make a long traverse at the base of the rock band. If the snow is deep, this may be more prudent, as you gain elevation on the usually packed Expert's Choice trail.

The first ascenionisits seemed to make the local Wardens a bit nervous with their late descent off the route. This was to be repeated a few days later when a couple of locals finished in the dark, only to have their rope jam. They ended up climbing back up in the dark (headlamps were left at the base) with a 15 foot section of rope. Needless to say it took a few pitches. The wardens also seemed to get quite nervous about having to organize a rescue. Luckily they never got the chance.

First Ascent
Harlan & Ranny Shantz
January 1996

Thanks for the updated info Harlan