Midnight Express

Left hand route.JPG

near the top.JPG

top pitch.JPG

Midnight Express is in a High Avalanche danger zone located at the back left of Wall lake. Once you get to the lake, the approach is straight forward. Cross the lake, hike up a 100 of snow to gain 60m of W2 ice. A bit more snow and some easy rock lead to another 60m section of the same which is followed by 80m of easy W3. This is a rambling route that is less sustained than Midnight Madness. I also believe the avalnche danger may be a bit less. However large cornices at the top of the ridge make this an univiting location for a mid season romp. Try the early season before there is too much snow buildup. Other routes to the right are also possible. These routes would provide a good start for a complete alpine ascent of the north face of this bowl.

First Ascent: Winter 2002/2003
Blair Piggot, Kevin Nemeth